What flooring should I choose for my room?
Match the floor to the moisture in the room and the traffic it takes. LVP for basements, kitchens, rentals and anywhere water is a possibility. Tile for bathrooms and entryways. Real or engineered wood in living space where you want the material to be real. Carpet in bedrooms and on stairs. Laminate only where the room stays dry.
The five, briefly
Luxury vinyl plank is waterproof, tough, quiet underfoot and forgiving of a subfloor that is not perfect. It is the default for basements and rentals for good reason.
Laminate is cheaper and harder-wearing on the surface, but the core is fibreboard and swells permanently if water gets into it. Dry rooms only.
Engineered wood is real wood over plywood, more stable than solid over concrete or in a basement, and it can usually be refinished once depending on the wear layer.
Solid hardwood is the longest-lived option and can be refinished several times. It does not belong below grade or on a slab without care.
Tile lasts effectively forever, handles water, and is hard and cold underfoot. Carpet is warm and quiet and is the right answer for bedrooms and stairs.
The subfloor decides more than the finish
Every floor sits on something, and flatness, moisture and squeaks all come from underneath. A concrete slab has to be tested for moisture before wood or laminate goes on it, and plywood that flexes will telegraph through tile as cracked grout.
We check and prep the subfloor as part of the job. Skipping that is the most common reason a new floor fails early.
Two practical questions people forget
What happens when one plank gets damaged. Click-together floating floors are hard to repair in the middle of a run. Glue-down LVP and tile can be replaced piece by piece.
What happens at the doorways. Transitions between rooms and between materials need planning, particularly where heights differ, and a floor that looks right until it meets the hallway is a floor that was not laid out.
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